Old City, New Year, Fond Farewell

Heading into the Old City from the Jaffa Gate

By Rabbi Goldsmith

It is impossible to imagine that our trip has already come to an end. But, as with the rest of our journey, we did NOT let the fact that our trip was ending slow us down. Our last day was JAM PACKED.

The famous windmill at the top of Yemin Moshe

We did start with a bit more leisure – only meeting up at 10 AM in the lobby of our hotel to find Avi and head once again to the Old City. On the way we walked through the Yemin Moshe neighborhood of Jerusalem. It was the first neighborhood built outside the walls of the Old City. It’s charming windmill, narrow allies and beautiful flowers surrounded us as we made our way into the valley which separates the Old City from the New. We then marched up hill and into the Old City via the Jaffa Gate. Avi made us promise not to stop to buy things as we made our way through the market towards the Christian Quarter.

At the entrance of Christianity's most holy church

First stop: Church of the Holy Sepulcher. After a crash course in Classical Christian theology (Avi) and a fast discussion of Judaism and Christianity as sister religions (me), we headed into the church revered by billions of Christians the world over. The church is filled with sites which Christian tradition teaches were the place where Jesus died on the cross, was buried and then rose. Seeing the Christian faithful from all over the world complete their pilgrimages to this spot was undeniably inspiring.

Purchasing some beautiful home decor

After the church we continued with some much needed souvenir shopping in the Christian Quarter with the purchase of bags, drums, a carpet and other gifts for friends and family back home.

Fighting through the crowds near the Damascus Gate to try and get some AMAZING falafel

Then on to the Muslim Quarter and its vibrant markets and ally-ways. Avi led us to his favorite Hummus restaurant in Jerusalem (Abu Shukri) and then I led everyone to the best falafel in Jerusalem at the foot of the road leading to the Damascus Gate. A skeptical Avi agreed that it was falafel par excellence. Some of our group then left the Old City while others continued back through the Arab market by another route. That afternoon some shopped while others drank coffee at the King David Hotel or simply relaxed.

An amazing site for havdalah

Our evening began with a beautiful Havdalah ceremony overlooking the walls of the Old City. As we bid farewell to Shabbat, our trip together and the year 2011, we reflected on our time together. We each shared something that we discovered in Israel and something that we would “take home” with us. The sharing was heart-felt and touching, our trip was clearly meaningful to each person who shared the journey.

"Happy New Year!"

We finished our day with a delicious New Years Eve dinner at Joy restaurant in the German Colony of Jerusalem. We shared good food, good laughs and good stories before bidding farewell to one another to begin our journey home.

For me, it was truly an honor to travel this land with each member of our group. I know that we each leave Israel with a stronger connection to the Land, State and People as well as a stronger sense of what Judaism means to each one of us.

Homeward bound...

En route to the Old City

Stairways, Jerusalem Stone and Greenery make Yemin Moshe unique

Zatar anyone?

Our farewell meal

Remember and Live

A profile of the Yad Vashem museum in Jerusalem

Friday, December 30, 2011

By the Bernsteins

The day began with our usual pick and choose from a never-ending breakfast buffet.  Bus loading was at a relative leisurely 8:15 am.

Entering the Yad Vashem museum

Our first stop was Yad Vashem which is the memorial of remembrance related to events leading to the Holocost and beyond.  Even having a knowledge of these events does not prepare you for the immensity and intensity of this  emotional and historical journey.  The sharing of thoughts among fellow members and our own private service led by Rabbi Goldsmith provided opportunity for bonding.

Henry and Marty pause for a moment of reflection during our visit to Yad Vashem

This bonding continued in a much lighter tone for some of us at the Mechane Yehuda food market (while others went shopping).   It would have been easy to get lost in the hectic crowded streets but Avi kept close watch on his group and never lost anyone.   In the market Avi used his inside knowledge of the best vendors to present us with opportunities for sampling a variety of tasty delicacies.  This was capped by hot from the oven chocolate rugelah (all others will forever compete for second best).  As we started back to the hotel we met up with others from our group who shared their shopping experiences and showed us their finds.

Some of the amazing variety at Machane Yehuda, the Jewish Market in Jerusalem

Our day ended with religious and familial bondings at the Reform Community of Mevassaret Zion.  But on the way  we had to find a flower vendor so we could bring a bouquet to our host families. Joyful services were followed by splitting up to have dinner and conversation with a community family.   Our   host    family prepared a delicious  dinner  which we enjoyed    as we talked  about   a variety of topics ranging from  all our professions to where to go to the beach  and on a somewhat more serious note life  in a reform community.  Dicussions also  revealed  how small the world is.  Their daughter is a vet living in Danbury, CT married to a Japanese space engineer and has 2 small children.  Our host has relatives in Winnipeg and Toronto as do I (Marty).

Saying kiddush and motzi with the members of Kehillat Mevaseret Tzion

The last bus trip of the day included sharing our dinner experiences.  The community had carefully selected the  host  famiies so everyone was matched with a comparable one.   The young adults readily exchanged e-mail addresses so they can plan future encounters.

Enjoying a nightcap back at the hotel after a wonderful evening

Julia, Rebecca, Ella and Emily

Masada and the Dead Sea

A blessing for our B'nei Mitzvah on Masada. Eddie became bar mitzvah in October of 2011 and Jason will celebrate his bar mitzvah in October of 2012

Blog by the Sheppards’ December 29, 2011

The day started bright and early for a 6:15 breakfast at our hotel.  Henry and Sam finally found bagels and smoked salmon! (Yippee, two nice Jewish boys have never been happier!) After breakfast, we departed the hotel at 6:45 am, heading south to the desert, for a full morning at Masada. The ride gave us a great chance to catch up on a little sleep (all that food from a late dinner last night kept us up and in need of some extra shut eye). After arriving at Masada, most of the group charged up The Snake Path for an anticipated 40-minute hike. The balance of our group (those with bad ankles, tired legs or a fear of heights) took the gondola after watching an informative movie about the history of Masada. As for the hikers, some faired better than others, getting to the peak of the mountain was a worthy accomplishment for all. The weather was glorious and it was wonderful to experience this awesome setting in clear skies and cool temperatures.

Hiking the snake path

We spent the next 2 hours exploring Herod’s mountain palace and the site of the Jewish Zealots’ last stand against the Roman Legionaries. Avi, our tour guide and Rabbi Goldsmith helped us imagine what our ancestors must have felt like at the time. The Rabbi led us in an activity whereby each family was asked to discuss what values were cherished by their own family, and what each of us was willing to do to ensure that these values were part of our lives. This paralleled the discussion about Elazar Ben Yair’s speech to the Jews at Massada, where he too was guided by strong values, which led him to make some difficult decisions. We compared him to Yochanan Ben Zakai who chose to adapt when faced with challenge in order to live out his values. Ben Zakai’s choice led to the Judaism of today.

Enjoying the top of Masada

For us, the most special moment shared as a group at Masada was a ceremony honoring Eddie and Jason’s B’nei Mitzvah. We gathered in a circle around the boys and each member of our group shared a Jewish value that we wanted to pass on to them. Then both boys stood under a sacred space made from the Rabbi’s tallis held up by the boys’ parents and the Rabbi offered a special blessing to the boys.  What a very moving moment for all of us. It reminded us of the importance of passing on Jewish values from generation to generation and the gratification of knowing we are continuing to preserve our traditions and beliefs.

The Shyers enjoying the view from Masada's southern end after listening the echo of "Sheinit m'tzada lo tipol" "Masada will not fall again".

Another memorable moment was when Avi asked us to yell loudly at the top of the mountain a Hebrew phrase, “sheinit m’tzada lo tipol”, which translated to “Masada will never fall again”. After the group screamed these words, we stood silently and waited for the echo of these words to return to us. It was louder and more amazing than any one of us imagined! I think it is a moment that none of us will soon forget.

There is nothing as amazing as floating ON TOP of the water!

After Masada, we took a brief bus ride to the resort area on the Dead Sea, where we shared a festive lunch and swam in the Dead Sea. Those that entered the freezing water were invigorated by their buoyant time on the water.  Some even discovered the joy of covering their bodies with mud before walking into the water. An over zealous Israeli lifeguard even provided some excitement to add to the experience (ask the Rabbi if you must…)

Taking advantage of the famous Dead Sea mud

We boarded the bus and headed back to our hotel in Jerusalem for a two-hour break in our schedule. Avi gave us our marching orders to be promptly back on the bus for a wonderful dinner with the Lone Solders and a Show after that.

The setting for the Night Spectacular

Dinner was yet another chance for us to enjoy terrific Israeli food. The plates covered the table and the homemade Lemonade was a special addition. Rachel and Adam, two Lone Soldiers from the US, joined us and shared their experiences in the Israeli Army as well as their family backgrounds and their perspectives on Israeli life, political and religious issues. We could have stayed and talked to them for hours but we all had to leave the restaurant and rush to an 8 pm show in the Old City, “The Night Spectacular” (and truly it was). Imagine Jerusalem’s history over the course of 4000 years, focusing on the central events and their importance, all depicted in lights, which lit up and covered the walls of the Tower of David. History was happening all around us and we felt that we were part of it. It was absolutely amazing and a show not to be missed by any visitor to Jerusalem.

Our group with the Lone Soldiers

A quick group photo, and goodbye to our new friends, then back on the bus to our hotel for the end of a great day… or at least for most of us… the energetic few still had some energy for a nightcap at a local bar and some more Israeli nightlife. Did someone remind them we have another early start tomorrow?

Rachel and Richard enjoy a late night waffle after a nightcap near Ben Yehuda Street

Time is flying by and we are sad to see it go so quickly. More to blog about tomorrow. Lyla tov!

Preparing to hike the Snake Path

The hike wasn't enough. Nina wanted her push ups, too!

 

Marty and Pat enjoying the view at the top of Masada after watching us climb up.

 

Rabbi Goldsmith and our guide Avi

The Sheppards enjoying the top of Masada

A few more muddy congregants!

 

 

 

 

Cities Old and Ancient

On the rooftops of Jerusalem

By The Rubin Family

After being allowed to “sleep in,” our group gathered on the bus at 8:30 a.m. to begin our first day in Yerushaliem shel zahav, “Jerusalem of Gold.”  Jerusalem is the one place on earth that connects Jews directly to their ancestors of thousands of years.  We imagine that whether it is one’s first time visiting the city or the tenth time, being here is a moving and exhilarating experience.  We entered the city through the Jaffa Gate in the city wall built by the Ottomans over 400 years ago.

Walking the narrow streets of Jerusalem's Old City

After walking through the narrow and busy streets we stopped on a rooftop to view the Temple Mount, Dome of the Rock and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher the most holy sites of Judaism, Islam and Christianity.  From this vantage point, Avi also pointed out to us the four quarters of Jerusalem; the Armenian, the Jewish, the Christian and the Muslim.

 

After getting a rooftop view of Jerusalem we descended “under” the city to an archaeological site of 2000 year old mansions.  It was amazing to see that those inhabitants of Jerusalem actually lived quite well.  It was also amazing to see the ingenuity of the present day Israelis.  On top of these mansions were built modern day buildings, their solution to saving the old yet making way for the new.

Mark, Marty, Eddie and Richard at the Western Wall

The Western Wall: the most sacred and holy place in a city that has had an unbroken bond to Judaism for 3000 years.  As we approached the wall, as Reform American Jews, we were humbled by the connection it gave us to Judaism and our ancestors.  We were also humbled by the significance that this structure has to all Jews, secular or religious, Reform or Orthodox, young or old, man or woman.

The Sheppards offering their Family Prayer at the top of the Southern Wall Steps

In the midst of our day and the busy city of Jerusalem, and under the guidance of Rabbi Goldsmith, we took time out to reflect on what we praise God for, on what we ask of God and what in our lives we are thankful for.  Each family created a unique prayer which we offered at the top of the Southern Wall Steps, the very same steps climbed by our ancient ancestors when they brought offerings to The Temple.

Unearthing 2000 year old Edomite pottery in a cave at Beit Guvrin

After a lunch of falafel, shawarma and coke (and a little shopping) we boarded the bus and headed to the Beit Guvrin Caves to become “archeologists for a day.”   Some of us actually unearthed objects from 2300 years ago.  Some of us also successfully crawled through the Maresha Cave Labyrinth.

Samantha and Julia making their way through the cave labyrinth

In the evening, back in Jerusalem, we ventured to the Western Wall, once again, this time to explore the Western Wall Tunnels that run a long distance under the Muslim Quarter of the Old City.  The tunnels were musty but awesome.

Jason scales the walls of the Western Wall Tunnel

Rebecca and Ella by the 8th century wall that protected Hezekiah's Jerusalem from the invading Assyrians

Jason and Rachel venturing beyond the Do Not Enter Sign at Beit Guvrin

Pat and Marty descend into the cave for some digging

Our group gets ready to dig

Bonnie squeezes through a narrow passage as we make our way through the caves

Rabbi Goldsmith gets ready to lower himself further into the cave

Satisfied archaeologists after a fun afternoon of digging and caving

Rebecca and Julia in the Western Wall Tunnel

Sacred Tzfat, Cemetery, Socialism & Synagogue

Breathing the mystical mountain air on the porch at Livnot U'Lehibanot with Mt. Meron in the backgound

By the Sheppard-Groh Family

This morning started bright and early with breakfast at the Hagoshrim kibbutz at 6:45am (eek!). Wiping the sleep from our eyes, we loaded the bus and had a prompt departure from the hotel at 7:30. Our first stop: Tzfat, the center of Jewish mysticism since the 1500s. Upon arriving, we gathered at a public garden where Avi talked to us about how Jews traditionally long for the coming of the Messiah, especially in the town of Tzfat. We learned about the bravery and resilience of the inhabitants of Tzfat’s Jewish Quarter during the Independence War in 1948. Though a minority surrounded by Muslims, the Jews of Tzfat insisted on remaining in their homes even as they anticipated attack by their Arab neighbors once the State of Israel was declared on May 14, 1948. As we were looking out into the distant mountains in the Upper Galilee and hearing the recent history of Tzfat, we were briefly interrupted by a Klezmer music-playing, Chanukiyah-carrying car, a change from all the Christmas music we would have heard if we were back in Westchester. Rabbi Goldsmith also explained that it is the belief of the Kaballah that actions that we do on earth affects what happens in the heavens; if we follow commandments and do good things, this matters to God. Thus motivating people to do the even the smallest mitzvahs.

Climbing out of Kahal, Livnot's amazing excavation of 16th Century Tzfat

We then walked to the Livnot offices at the center of Tzfat, an organization Rabbi Goldsmith participated in ten years ago, which was influential in his decision to become a rabbi. While looking at the wall of pictures of volunteers and those on Birthright trips, we felt a sense of international community dedicated to the mission of preserving the history of Tzfat. Lori (our guide) then showed us the work of the volunteers who have uncovered and are restoring Jewish homes from the 16^th century that were covered by dirt after two earthquakes. It was amazing for us to see the amount of work that went into digging out centuries-old buildings and the number of still-covered buildings throughout the city (we could see archways peeking out of the ground, a sign that there were buildings underneath).

Back at Livnot HQs, we enjoyed a fantastic view of Mount Meron (where Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai, attributed with the founding of Kaballah, is buried) from the sunny balcony. There, Yonaton (another Livnot educator) talked with us more about Kaballah. We walked away from him agreeing with his message of appreciation of everyday things, that holiness can be invoked in ordinary activities when we take the time to stop and think.

Marty taking a moment to honor the memory of Israeli poet Naomi Shemer

After looking at the local artists, we went to visit the Kinneret Cemetery. Overlooking the gorgeous Sea of Galilee (and enjoying the warmer weather at a lower altitude), we learned about the founding Kibbutz members. We also read poetry and sang a song or two at the graves of Rachel (so famous she has no last name) and Naomi Shemer, two popular Israeli poets.

We then headed to the Ashdot Ya’acov kibbutz where we had a taste of kibbutz life by eating a communal style lunch. After we had finished, a lifetime “kibbutznic,” talked about his parents’ decision to leave Poland and settle in Israel and the changes he has seen on the kibbutz during his lifetime. It was interesting to know that when the kibbutz was first settled, everything was communal (including child raising – very shocking to us that children were taken out of the individuals’ homes at only two weeks). However, now the kibbutz is much more capitalist, where everyone works for a salary. We were relieved to know for the past several decades children remain in their family homes.

Touring Kibbutz Ashdot Ya'akov while learning about kibbutzim past and present

With prompting from Avi and Rabbi, we hurried off the kibbutz so that there was time to make a surprise stop to see the mosaic floor of the Beit Alpha synagogue. This was especially personal to our group because the tapestry on the wall of our synagogue at home depicts the image of this centuries-old mosaic floor. We also chuckled when we saw Yoram Gal (the artist who welcomed us into his home and gallery in Jaffa) as one of the stars in the informational video about the tile floor.

 

The original mosaic from the 6th century synagogue of Beit Alpha. A reproduction on tapestry hangs in our sanctuary.

Our drive along the Jordan border was especially speedy, as Guy (our faithful bus driver) was hurrying home to light the eighth Hanukkah candle with his children. To our surprise, we breezed through both security checkpoints, both crossing into and out of the West Bank. Our drive ended with two songs in anticipation of our arrival in the City of Gold. We celebrated our home-coming to Jerusalem atop Mount Olive, sharing wine and blessings as we viewed the twinkling lights of the Old City. What a special moment for all!

Physically weary yet spiritually energized, we checked into the beautiful Inbal hotel and parted ways for the night. Lyla tov!

Our view of Jerusalem from Mount of Olives upon our arrival in the Holy City.

Some more pictures from our amazing day:

Avi introduces us to the history of Tzfat

The Rubins enjoy our walk through Tzfat on the way to Livnot

Bonnie and Henry enjoy the old city of Tzfat

Eddie walks down and through an arch to enter Kahal, the 16th century village uncovered by Livnot

The Cohens enjoying the sunshine and mountain air

Jason and Sam taking it all in

Richard trying out Rabbi Goldsmith's new shofar

Rachel reads the poetry of Rachel

 

Rabbi Goldsmith's son, Lev, would LOVE this "train" on Kibbutz Ashdot Ya'akov

Borders and Security – Jeeps and Wine

Enjoying the view of the Hula Valley and the Upper Galilee from the Golan Heights while on our jeep tour

By the Cohens

Enjoying some hot chocolate with Lebanon in the back ground (and only about a dozen feet from the border fence!)

The sun is shining today but it is cold!  After an abundant, delicious Israeli breakfast at Kibbutz Hagoshrim, we travelled north to Kibbutz Misgav Am which sits on top of a ridge literally on the border of Lebanon.  On the Lebanon side of the kibbutz’ border fence is a formerly Lebanese Christian town now run entirely by Hezbollah.  Our guide was a pistol-packing, religiously secular, ardent Zionist farmer who made aliyah at age 21 from Cleveland in 1960.  He passed on to us the first hand knowledge of kibbutz life in Eretz Israel, its ardors and its joys, and his absolute belief in the permanence of Israel as our Jewish home land.  We then took a brief tour of the kibbutz and saw an underground bomb shelter where when necessary, the members of the kibbutz can live for a day, a week, even a month.

 

Jill and Pat ready for some more rough and muddy roads on our thrilling jeep ride up the Golan Heights

Next was an off-road, bumpy trip by jeeps up the mountain mud roads leading to the top of the Golan Heights.  Along the way we saw wild boar, gazelles and fox!  From the top we could see Lebanon, Syria and the Sea of Galilee, and learned from our guides (former soldiers) the geopolitical hows and whys of the Six Day War of June 1967.  These included how the IDF won the Golan Heights in the final two days of the war, providing Israel with security against Syria (and ensured the water supply) for the past 44 years.

Enjoying another meal of the salads, pitas, falafels and chick-pea variations that define food in this corner of the world. This time in a restaurant in the Druze village of Mas'ade.

Lunch followed at an Israeli Druze (an off-shoot from Islam) restaurant, where we satisfied ourselves with a delicious meal and observed how Israeli Jews and non-polemic Israeli Muslims can and do live together normally.

 

Syria in the background

On our bus ride to the extinct volcano Har Ben-Tal our guide Avi educated us on the complacency that led to the October 1973 Yom Kippur War and Israel’s miraculous recovery and victory.  From a lookout point we viewed the fields where the tank battles occurred with Syria during the war and saw where a permanent United Nations outpost now sits.

 

Tasting the Chenin Blanc at Pelter Winery in Kibbutz Ein Zivan

Next we went to the local Pelter Winery where many of our group took a brief tour of the cellars and tasted six Israeli wines with some tasty local goat cheese made by the wine-maker’s wife.  The wine was enjoyed and a few bottles were purchased to take to our dinner with IDF soldiers.  Those not sampling wine participated in a chocolate making workshop at De Karina where we observed the professionals at work and then donned paper hats to make our own yummy chocolate.

 

Samantha, Ella, Julia, Rachel, and Julia enjoying dinner with their new friend Yossi

We finished our day with a delicious steak dinner with three IDF soldiers at Sharole Restaurant.   These wonderful young men are roughly the age of our college age children and shoulder great and grave responsibilities in the defense of the Jewish people.  We have deep respect for them and their commitment and were pleased to thank them personally for their service.

Getting ready to hear the story of Misgav Am

 

Discussing the reality of life on the border with Misgav Am resident Aryeh

One of our jeeps ascending the Golan (practically) off-road!

Our guide, Avi, and Rabbi Goldsmith modeling The North Face jackets on the Golan

Henry, Sam and Richard are ready to roll!

Bonnie and Samantha pointing the way to the summit of Har Ben-Tal

Julia and Rebecca are about to head into a bunker on the top of Har Ben-Tal

Jill and Eddie creating their chocolate masterpieces at De Karina

Mark, Richard and Henry with their new friends Avi, Yossi and Asaf

Marty, Pat and Avi enjoying the fine steak of Sharole

 

Traveling Back in Time on Our Way to the Galilee

Our Group - 2nd Century CE

 

By the Cohens

Our day began with a wild and beautiful sea front storm in the middle of the night, with lightning thunder and wind-whipped sideways rain.  Early breakfast, checkout and then onto Independence Hall in Tel Aviv.

Jason stands where Ben Gurion Declared the State of Israel

There we learned of how Tel Aviv came to be.  Tel Aviv was nothing but sand dunes on the outskirts of the old Arab/Turk port of Jaffa until 1909 when 66 Jewish families developed a suburb on a small parcel of the sand.  One of the original Tel Aviv Jews, Meir Dizengoff built a magnificent home; he subsequently, became Tel Aviv’s first mayor and he converted his home into an art museum.  That art museum became the makeshift sight for Israel’s Declaration of Independence read by David Ben Gurion at 4:00 p.m. on erev Shabbat, May 14, 1948 from three sheets of paper.  The next day, the Dizengoff house returned to being an art museum, and Egypt, Syria and Jordan declared war against Israel. Several wars later, in 1978, the Dizengof house ceased to be an art museum and has ever since been Israel’s Independence Hall, every bit as impressive and for these bloggers, far more moving than the one in Philadelphia. Israel’s Declaration has forever changed the world and altered its history.  Sitting in the room where it was read, restored to its condition on that day, and hearing Ben Gurion’s recorded voice reading the Declaration, was a truly moving experience.

Rabbi Goldsmith mounts a donkey with a little help from Bonnie!

Goodbye modern Tel Aviv as we next stepped back in time to experience life in the good ole’ days for the Jews in Galilee two millenia ago. At Kfar Kedem, a biblical village two hours north of Tel Aviv, we wore robes and headdresses, rode donkeys (a particular highlight),  drank tea made over an indoor wood stove, and ate a delicious lunch of hummus, rice and meats with our hands in our tent, followed by more tea and baklava.  Before lunch, we learned how the Jewish grain farmers survived (usually) by the grace of

Our guide Amir leads our donkey ride through the Galilee

Adonai’s provision of rain that the farmers prayed for.  We learned that the farmers’ gratitude for the rain and the resulting wheat led the farmers to honor the biblical injunction to leave the outside of their fields unharvested for the poor to glean, when it made no sense to do so otherwise. We  learned how to plant and harvest wheat, convert it into dough, and then baked it into pita on an outdoor rudimentary leaf-feed stove, after which we coated it with an olive oil and zatar paste, making a sandwich that was too good for words.

Hanging out the Roman Theater - Good for the Jews?

We moved on to nearby Zippori National Park where we sat in an ancient gladiator theatre.  From our seats we could look out over all of the Galilee.  We had a lively discussion as to whether it would have been morally ok, as Jews, to attend the gladiator fights. We then talked about where it would be most comfortable to live as Jews (Israel and USA vying for first place).

Jason was VERY enthusiastic about the archaeological dig at Zippori

Nearby we toured an ancient mansion with a stunning floor mosaic. There was a mosaic showing the homeowner and his guests reclining on couches and chairs as the Haggadah tells us was the custom of the wealthy. But the greatest evidence of the owner’s wealth was the indoor bathroom, an unheard-of luxury! We then walked to an ancient synagogue near the mansion with a mosaic like the one in the home. The mosaic included the zodiac sign, a portrayal of the binding of Isaac, and a menorah with a shofar.

From there, we drove to Kibbutz HaGoshrim (in most northern part of the Upper Galilee), where the sixth night of Hanukkah service was in evidence in the lobby where many guests had brought and lit their menorahs.

Rebecca plays the part of the donkey as Emily goes for a ride during a hysterical round of paper-bag dramatics

After a delicious buffet dinner we participated in a fun group “paper bag” activity in which we broke into four groups and with props (a personal item from each traveler) acted out memorable moments from our journey.  Many laughs were shared!

 

 

 

Enjoying lunch in the tent... silverware optional!

Marty leading Pat on the donkey ride

Samantha enjoys the ride while her dad, Henry, leads the donkey

Rebecca, Rabbi, and Ella showing off their stylish 2nd century garb

Sam and Jill getting used to the new clothing

Eddie and Jason clearly look best in duds of the day

Rebecca missed her donkey so Julia filled in at Zippori

Rebecca, Ella, Julia and Rachel pause on their walk through the mosaics of Zippori

The Rabbi joins the "kids table", enjoying dinner with Julia, Ella, Rebecca, Samantha and Eddie

Marty (tour guide), Nina (Ben Gurion), Rachel (flag waver) and Jill (Golda Meir) reenact our visit to Independence Hall

Mark, Sam, Pat and Julia reenact the endless (and amazing) meal at Amore Mio

Happy Chanukah!

Israel Below Ground and on the Streets

Eddie and Jason get ready to enter the Ayalon Institute

We began the day underground. The Ayalon Institute preserves an amazing site where young men and women, ages 16-24, secretly made bullets in preparation for the War of Independence from 1945-1948. Hidden under a kibbutz just south of Tel Aviv, these brave people made life-saving bullets right under the noses of the British. The other members of the kibbutz didn’t even know what they were doing. We all had our eyes opened to the sacrifice and risk taken by the Jews in pre-State Palestine in order to make the modern State of Israel a reality. Hearing the story of these brave Jews made us wonder for which causes we would make great sacrifice. In addition to these lofty questions, it was also just cool to see an underground bullet factory!

We then made our way back to Tel Aviv and enjoyed lunch at Moses Burger on the famous Dizengoff Boulevard. We enjoyed everything from hamburgers and veggie burgers through cous-cous salad and fajitas.

Eddie and Jason get ready to lead our group around Tel Aviv

Jason and Eddie then navigated us through the nearby streets as we learned about the famous Bauhaus architecture of Tel Aviv and the history of the city. It was amazing to see how this big city now stands where only 102 years ago were sand dunes. We also learned about how the city got its name: Tel – representing ancient archeological ruins, and Aviv – meaning spring. It is a city that makes the old new, that balances the old and the new. We had some time to think about how we each balance Jewish traditions (Tel, old) with the contemporary society in which we live (Aviv, new).

Enjoying our tour on Rothschilde Blvd.

After our tour we had some down time before ending Shabbat with havdalah and Chanukah candle lighting. Following the ceremony some of us went to dinner at Amore Mio where we enjoyed an endless 5-course meal – appetizers/salads, pizzas, pasta, meat and dessert. It was WAY too much food but delicious! As some of us walked back to the hotel (and got a little wet), others went to a local bar for a few drinks.

It was another wonderful day!

Richard heading down into the underground bullet factory

The Ayalon Institute guide, Yoav, telling us the amazing story of the kibbutz

Pat and Marty getting ready to enter the secret bullet factory

Peering down the secret trap door that led to the bullet factory

Eddie "befriending" one of the factory workers

 

Samantha and Bonnie on the tour

Jill and Rachel taking it all in on Rothschilde

Finishing up our tour at the historic home of Akiva Aryeh Weiss reading his famous quote "Like New York is the gateway to America, Tel Aviv will be the gateway to the Land of Israel"

Israeli Art and Israeli Reform

Our group by the sea at the very start of our official tour

Friday, December 23^rd

by Bonnie Shyer

The view up the beach to Tel Aviv

Our first official day! Following a leisurely morning during which some of us visited the sauna and gym, some ran along the beach, some  hung out at the hotel and others just arrived directly from the airport (but all enjoyed the incredible Israeli breakfast) we met out tour leader, Avi, and headed for the old port of Jaffa. We began with some readings at the place where Jonah last stood on dry land before being swallowed by the whale! From where we stood the modern city of Tel Aviv was clearly visible in one direction and the ancient port of Jaffa was right behind us in the opposite direction.

Yoram Gal (pointing) and Avi leading us around Jafffa

We were joined there by Yoram Gal, an accomplished artist and friend of Rabbi Goldsmith’s. As we walked through the beautifully rebuilt old port square Yoram shared stories of his 30 years living in Jaffa. We wound our way towards Yoram’s studio and spent some time looking at his magnificent paintings and enjoying a snack of hummus on pita.

The Cohens and the Rubins enjoying the arts and crafts of Nachalat Binyamin

From there we walked to another spot with a wonderful panoramic view and great photo opportunities. Then on to the flea market in search of treasures. We spent the rest of the afternoon browsing in The Carmel market and Nacahlat Binyamin – a magnificent array of luscious fruits, vegetables, spices, dried fruits, nuts, etc. and the arts and crafts market where local artisans display and sell their wares.

We visited the shell of Darchei Noam's building before heading to services with them at a local high school.

Following a brief rest we were off again to a suburb of Tel Aviv where we attended Shabbat services with one of only 28 reform Jewish congregations in Israel. Many of us were shocked to learn that the Reform movement is given a very hard time by the Israeli government. We learned that while the orthodox communities are funded by the government and the orthodox Rabbis are even paid by the government, the Reform congregations receive nothing and have a very difficult time even being allowed to obtain land to build their own synagogues.

Darchei Noam, the congregation we visited, was in court for 18 years before they received permission to build. Now, after having raised in excess of $750,000 from only 100 families, the shell of the building sits without electricity waiting to be finished due to lack of funds. The Shabbat/Hanukah service was held in the local high school and was led by Rabbi Stacey Blank, a friend and former classmate of Rabbi Goldsmith’s. Many of the songs and prayers were familiar to most of us. There were many families attending and one congregant was also celebrating his 75^th birthday. It was a festive, warm evening followed by a communal Shabbat dinner.

Today was a great start to what I am sure will be an incredible trip. We have already enjoyed so many different sights, sounds, smells and experiences  – as we are learning  about this amazing country. Looking forward to what tomorrow will bring …

The Shyers with a view of Tel Aviv

Nachalat Binyamin arts and crafts fair

Rachel and Jason at the Flea Market

Avi Guiding outside St. Peter's Church in Jaffa

The Cohens in Jaffa near the Tanner's House where St. Peter had his vision

Eddie and Richard enjoying the view

The Sheppards at the top of the hill in Jaffa

Walking the Beach

Where the sea meets Tel Aviv

Thursday was a day of walking. From the hotel along the beach all the way up to the Port of Tel Aviv. From the Port of Tel Aviv down through the city streets to the Carmel Market. From the hotel down along the water to Jaffa and an amazing dinner.

In the morning I met up  with the Shyers and the Sheppards for a “soft start” to the trip. As we started in the hotel lobby I assured them that this would be my only day of as “tour guide”. We then proceeded up the Blue Route along the water from the south end of town where our hotel is located up the beach. Along the way we stopped at various historical, cultural and recreational sites to learn a bit about the city and begin to understand how a modern metropolis rises out of the sand dunes in only 100 years.

After enjoying some coffee, soda, smoothies and shopping at the Port, we wove our way down Ben Yehuda Street, Dizengoff, Pinsker and Allenby back to the Carmel Market. Along the way we stopped in at an art gallery owned and run by Bonnie Shyer’s cousin. We spilt up at the market and enjoyed an afternoon of relaxation as families.

In the early evening we all met up again (this time with the Cohens who had since arrived in Israel) and walked down to Itzik Hagadol for a classic Israeli dinner of salads (about 15 different kinds) and amazing mixed grill. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful

 

 

Tomorrow we officially begin our trip together!!Mediterranean day.